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Low clouds this morning |
July 29 – BRRR it was cold again
this morning but supposed to warm up a lot so we were up and out the door for Yellowstone at 8.
I dressed in capris but layered on my tops. Bill overdressed for the ride and was hot
long before I was. Before we even got to
West Yellowstone there were unusual low
hanging clouds along the mountains.
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Road work |
The traffic getting into the park
was not too bad and things went rather smoothly until we got to Norris. We stopped at the Ranger Museum
there to get my passport stamp that we didn’t know they had the last time we
came. Then we were on the road to
Mammoth Hot Springs. That’s when the
going got slow. There was a very long section
of road work and we were switched from single lane to both then back
again. It was so nice once we got passed
it. They work 12 hours most days or they
will never get it done before snow season.
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Geyser at Upper Terraces |
Our first real stop for the day
was Mammoth Hot Springs – Upper Terraces area.
We decided to drive the one-way loop and at the first stop Bill dropped
me off thinking he’d find a space and ended up having to drive the entire loop
to get back to me. I saw him head on
around so took my photos of the formations at the first stop and was ready when
he came back around. I waited with the
car in a no parking area for him to go see what I had seen.
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Orange Spring Mound |
The next stop was the Orange
Spring Mound. That was really interesting. It looks like a huge mound of cake with icing
dripping down. On one side it has a lot
of orange coloring and continual steam coming from it. Most people just stopped in the road there
and took photos from the window so we had to get out of the way several times.
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Angel Terrace |
Further around the loop was Angel
Terrace. It looked rather desolate, all
white. Maybe the Angel part was due to
the white snowy look it had.
Once we came out of the loop and
down the hill to the outside of the Upper Terrace, the wall of formations sort
of runs down the hill forming the Lower
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Lower Terraces |
Terraces. One section was quite orange and steamy. We drove on passed into Mammoth Springs at an
elevation of 6,239. It’s open year
around, but isn’t actually a town even though there is a post office there.
Fort Yellowstone
was built here and the army protected the
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Albright Visitor Center |
park from 1886 to 1916. The fort’s building now house the Albright Visitor Center
and private residences and the parks headquarters. Three of the original buildings have been
torn down but the rest are in use. The
enlisted men’s quarters now house summer staff for the park system. There is only one hotel in the community, a
medical center, a general store and a couple of small shops and
restaurants. There is also a large park
services residential area just outside of the village.
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View of Lower Terraces |
After checking out everything we
took out our picnic lunch and our tablecloth and spread it on the ground along side
where we were parked. I had packed some
chicken salad, broccoli salad and potato salad.
We chased it with some crackers and brownies for dessert. We saved our fruit for a snack later.
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Bill at Roosevelt Arch |
The road out of the back of the
village goes to Gardiner, MT where the Roosevelt Arch is. That is the official entrance to Yellowstone. As
luck would have it they were doing road work in the entire town but we could
still walk to the arch for photos. The
first part of the town that you see looks like a typical western town with
plank sidewalk and no pavement for road.
We found out that the pavement had gotten so cracked and buckled that
they took it up and it is part of the work they are doing that will take 3
summers to complete.
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Main Street of Gardiner |
We checked out the shops and split
a cup of ice cream before heading back into the park. Bill spotted what he thought was elk in the
town’s green out front, so I circled back around and it was a male and female pronghorn antelope. Nice! First ones we’ve seen here.
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Male pronghorn antelope |
We didn’t get far before we
spotted a female elk along the road and another mile was another one. We had to drive back to Mammoth Hot Springs
to take the road north east to Tower-Roosevelt.
This is when things really slowed
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Wet moose |
down.
First Bill spotted a single buffalo along the road and then cars were
stopped all over and we finally found out they were watching a female moose
taking a bath in a pond along the road.
We stopped for a few minutes to catch her and finally got back on our
way.
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Mom and her babies |
As we were pulling into the
Tower-Roosevelt Ranger Station for a passport stamp there was a deer and her 2
fawns right where we were turning. They
pretty much ignored us and the babies raced to get some lunch. That stopped traffic for a bit also.
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Stagecoach passing through |
Where we made our turn to go to
the Yellowstone Association Institute at Lamar Buffalo Ranch there was a
stagecoach trail ride coming through.
Then we were on our way through Lamar Valley
and it seems at every turn there
were more herds of buffalo. We saw cars in the pull out on the right and
there was a small ridge just behind the pull out and we could see buffalo so I
pulled in at the far end of the pull out and Bill got out to video.
Just as he was going up the ridge 2 buffalo
came around it and I yelled for him and he turned and videoed them going in
front of the car and across the road.
Traffic was
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Here's the big guy! |
stopped. Then a
single buffalo came in front of me and stopped and the edge of the road and
looked left, then looked right and the walked to the center line and
stopped. Then he looked left again and
right again and just stood there gazing at all the people with cameras and cars
stopped. He was there 5-7 minutes just
standing and watching, then slowly he turned around and walked back to the
ridge and went around it. It was
unbelievable. Several watchers were
crouched beside our car in case he decided to get aggressive. There were others still over the ridge but he
was maybe 10 feet from my car. Bill was
thrilled to be so close to this big guy!
As we proceeded down the road to
the Lamar Buffalo Ranch where I could get another
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Some of the herd in Larmar Valley |
passport stamp, we passed
field after field of buffalo herds. The Lamar Valley
is the largest accumulation of buffalo in the park. The buffalo at their peak in the US was 60
million. In the late 1800’s there were
less than 300 left. The Buffalo Ranch
had 25 pure buffalo and the Ranch then protected and provided for those 25 and
increased the herd back to what it is today.
There is an estimate of 250,000 currently owned privately and publicly
in the US. Each winter there are some that die from no
food and some walk off the park boundaries and are then fair game for Native
Americans to kill but you cannot get a buffalo permit.
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Strange rock formation |
We turned around at this point
and headed back to
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Tower Falls |
Roosevelt Lodge where we took the road south to Tower Falls. Along the way were some interesting rocks along
the road and along the walls of the Yellowstone
River. They
made a nice backdrop for the Tower
Falls. There’s a nice stop there with a shop and
snacks and then a short walk to the falls.
We ended up not getting a snack since we had fruit in the car that we
hadn’t eaten at lunch time.
It has been a long day and we
were finally on the last loop around to heading home. It was really a super day after seeing so
many wild animals in their natural habitat.
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